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Trimming and haircuts at home: what's realistic

You want to tidy up your dog’s coat yourself, safely, and know which jobs to leave to a groomer.

By Grooming Dogs · Updated October 5, 2026

Thinking of shaving a thick, double-coated dog? Read why not to shave a double coat first. For buying scissors or clippers, see choosing clippers and scissors.

A professional groomer trimming a Shih Tzu on a grooming table in a salon.
Full haircuts and styling are best left to a groomer. At home, stick to small, careful trims. Photo: Goochie Poochie Grooming / Pexels

Short answer:

  • Stick to small, careful trims: hair covering the eyes, long hair around the genitals, and hair between the paw pads [1].
  • Prepare the coat: trim only once it’s clean, dry and brushed [1][2].
  • Use the right tools: blunt-ended (round-tip) scissors, or small clippers with guide combs [1].
  • Keep blades away from the skin [1], and check that clipper blades aren’t getting hot [4].
  • Leave full haircuts and styling to a groomer.

What to trim at home, and what to leave

Trimming at home should be done carefully, slowly and sparingly [1]. Light trims are fine. For home grooming, the ASPCA advises against shaving your pet [2].

Usually fine at homeBest left to a groomer (or vet)
Hair covering the eyes [1]Full haircuts and breed-style trims
Long hair around the genitals and under the tail [1]Matted coats (see dealing with mats)
Hair between the paw pads [1]Shaving a double coat (see why not to shave a double coat)
A light overall tidy, with blades well away from the skin [1]A dog that won’t keep still for scissors or clippers (see getting your dog used to clippers)
Hair around the face and feet, trimmed dry and clean [2]Anal glands: a job for your vet (see below)

Preparing the coat

Brush, bathe and dry your dog thoroughly before you trim [1]. Clean, dry fur is easier to trim evenly [2], and a brushed-out coat shows you what actually needs cutting.

Work in good light, on a non-slip surface, with your dog calm and treats within reach. Keep sessions short.

What you’ll need

  • Blunt-ended (round-tip) scissors [1]
  • Small clippers with guide combs, if you’ll use clippers [1]
  • A comb
  • Treats

Choosing scissors or clippers? See choosing clippers and scissors.

Trimming the paw pads

The goal is to trim hair between the paw pads when it’s needed [1], not to reshape the foot.

  1. Hold one paw gently and spread the toes slightly so you can see the hair between the pads.
  2. Trim the hair that sticks out beyond the pads so it sits roughly level with them. Use blunt-ended scissors or small clippers [1].
  3. Don’t dig the scissor points or clipper blade down between the pads. The skin there is easy to nick.
  4. Take small amounts at a time, then check the paw before moving on to the next.

The sanitary trim

A sanitary trim keeps long hair around the genitals and under the tail short, so it stays cleaner [1].

  1. Have someone help steady your dog if possible, standing or lying on their side.
  2. Use small clippers with a guide comb or blunt-ended scissors [1]. The Humane World for Animals guide notes that a number 10 blade may work best in delicate areas [1].
  3. Keep the blade flat and away from the skin, and trim only the long hair, not down to the skin.
  4. Go slowly and stop if your dog moves suddenly.

The skin in this area is delicate. If you see redness, swelling or broken skin, stop. See redness after clipping or contact your vet.

Anal glands are not a home grooming job. Don’t try to express your dog’s anal sacs unless a veterinarian has trained you to do it [3]. If your dog keeps scooting or licking under the tail, ask your vet.

Trimming around the eyes and face

Trimming hair that covers the eyes [1] is the most delicate home trim. Take it slowly.

  1. Steady your dog’s head with your free hand under the chin, or have someone help.
  2. Use blunt-ended (round-tip) scissors [1]. Hold them parallel to the face, with the tips pointing away from the eye.
  3. Trim only the hair that falls into the eyes, a little at a time.
  4. Around the ears, hold the ear with your free hand so you only trim the excess fur [2]. Be very careful with the scissors [2].

If your dog’s eye looks red or sore, or your dog is squinting after a trim, contact your vet.

Using clippers and blades

Blade numbers and guard combs

Clipper blades are sold by number, and guide (guard) combs clip onto the blade to set how long the hair is left [4]. As a starting point, the Humane World for Animals guide suggests [1]:

BladeSuggested use [1]
Number 10Delicate areas
Number 4A light overall trim

The length a blade actually leaves isn’t fixed. It changes with the angle of the blade against the skin, and with the thickness and texture of the coat [4]. Check the blade or guide comb manufacturer’s information for the approximate length of each blade, and start longer than you think you need. You can always take more off.

Clipper heat and skin safety

  • Clipper blades can get hot during use. Check the blade often, especially close-cutting blades [4]. If it feels hot to your touch, stop and let it cool, or switch to a cool blade.
  • Never use a damaged or broken blade or comb. It can injure the skin [4].
  • Keep the blade away from the skin for an overall trim [1].

If your dog’s skin looks red or irritated after clipping, see redness after clipping.

Avoiding a patchy finish

  • Start with a clean, dry, brushed coat [1][2]. Tangles and damp hair clip unevenly.
  • Keep the blade at a steady angle. Changing the angle changes the length of the cut [4].
  • Use the same guide comb across an area, and make slow, overlapping passes in the direction the hair grows.
  • If you find mats, stop and deal with them first: see dealing with mats.

Cut styles and what to ask for

Groomers and owners use names like “puppy cut”, “teddy bear cut” or “kennel cut”. The names are handy shorthand, but the clearest way to get the result you want is to describe it:

  • Body: how long you want the hair left
  • Head and face: rounded, shorter, or left natural
  • Legs and feet: the same length as the body, or fuller
  • Ears and tail: trimmed, tidied or left long
  • A photo: bring one of a cut you like, and ask whether it suits your dog’s coat

Check what the groomer means by any cut name before they start.

Common questions

It’s safer to use blunt-ended (round-tip) scissors [1], especially around the face, feet and private parts. Whatever you use, be very careful [2]. Keep the tips pointing away from your dog’s skin and eyes.

Uneven results usually come from the blade angle changing as you work. The angle, together with the thickness and texture of the coat, changes how short the blade cuts [4]. Clipping a damp, tangled or unbrushed coat makes it worse. For an even finish, start with a clean, dry, brushed coat [1][2], keep the blade angle steady, and use the same guide comb across each area.

At home, keep it light. Trim sparingly [1], keep blades away from the skin [1], and don’t shave your dog [2]. For thick, double-coated dogs, shaving can cause problems: see why not to shave a double coat. Shorter styles and clip-downs are a job for a groomer.

Where to go next

How to brush your dog properly

Brush out the coat before you trim.

Bathing your dog

Trim a clean, dry coat for an even finish.

Choosing a dog groomer

For full haircuts and styles.

Grooming tools

Scissors and clippers for home trims.

This is general information about grooming healthy dogs, not veterinary advice. If your dog’s skin, eyes or rear end look sore or inflamed, contact your vet. How we write, source and fund our guides.

Sources